I based this article on the number one questions I get asked by customers when talking skin with people.
Am I doing too much? What is & isn’t necessary,what order do I do it iN & what is the purpose of all the different steps?
When it comes to skincare now, we are being recommended a lot of layers. We are putting a lot of product into our skin & It can feel excessive. Most skincare brands will carry a toner, essence, serum, EYE CREAM, moisturiser, SPF, oil & now primers too. Not to mention this is all before applying makeup. The consumer is left wondering if its actually necessary or if they have been upsold a whole heap of products they don’t need.
Im going to explain what the purpose & benefit is of every step in a recommended skincare regime. Each step in the right order of how to apply, from start to finish.
STEP 1
TONER (FIRST STEP AFTER CLEANSING)
What is the purpose of a toner?
This depends on the type of toner you use. Most toners are generally designed to balance the PH of the skin after cleansing. Others are used as a secondary cleanse TO make sure you have removed all TRACES OF MAKEUP. The third type is to calm & balance the skin after cleansing- think sensItive skin types.
How can I skip this step?
Choose an appropriate cleanser for your skin type.
to get help on choosing the right cleanser go into a skincare store/clinic, explain
your skin type and ask what cleanser is right for you.
Make sure your cleanser has no SLS (this is the ingredient that will strip your skins barrier OF MOISTURE)
choose a cleanser with a built in toner.
Cleanse twice to effectively clean skin & wipe over skin with a wet cotton round to ensure skin is left with no residue.
Product recommendation
111 Skin- Cryo pre-activated toning cleanser- suitable for all skin types & contains a built in toner & exfoliant.
Step 2
Essence
What is an essence?
An essence is DESIGNED TO WORK LIKE A DELIVERY SYSTEM FOR ALL OTHER PRODUCTS ON YOUR SKIN. IT usually HAS a water like consistEncy & WILL contains a brands most active & hydrating ingredients. You apply essence by pouring a few drops into your hands & pressing into the skin.
What is the PURPOSE of an essence?
An essence works TO DELIVER ACTIVE INGREDIENTS & HYDRATION INTO THE DEEPEST LAYERS OF THE SKIN. The skin absorbs better & product penetrates easier when the skin it is hydrated.
Product Recommendation
tatcha the essence- a skin softening essence containing a high dose of japanese superfoods to give you your most plump, dewy & youthful skin.
Step 3
serum
What is the purpose of a serum?
a serum is a light weight moisturiser designed to have a smaller molecule size to reach the deepest layers of the skin. a serum will usually contain a brand’s highest concentration of active ingredients. USING a serum will target your skin concerns such as skin ageing, pigmentation & dehydration.
so can I just use a serum instead of a moisturiser?
no. a serum will completely absorb into the deeper layers of the skin not leaving the outer layers hydrated or protected.
product recommendation
Apot.care pure hyaluronic serum- a serum to replenish dehydrated skin. contains the highest concentrate of hyaluronic acid recommended by dermatologists. this serum will help your skin to retain moisture, smooth fine fines & reduce inflammation.
step 4
EYE CREAM
WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF AN EYE CREAM?
EYE CREAMS ARE DESIGNS TO TREAT DARK CIRCLES, PUFFINESS & LINES.
WHY CAN’T I USE MY NORMAL MOISTURISER AROUND MY EYES?
THE SKIN AROUND THE EYE AREA IS MUCH MORE thin & DELICATE THAN THE REST OF YOUR FACE. YOU NEED A VERY DIFFERENT CONSISTENCY OF PRODUCT TO APPLY ON THIS sensitive AREA OF THE SKIN. you also need different ingredients to treat different skin concerns. eye creams are also almost always unscented & will contain a lower concentration of ingredients such as retinol to avoid irritation. the most common result in using a face moisturiser that is too rich under the eyes is milia. milia appears on the skin as small white bumps. milia results from keratin being trapped under the skins surface. milia neesds to be professionally extracted.
are there face moisturises that i can put under my eyes?
yes. you just have to make sure they specifically note that they can be used as an eye cream.
product recommendation
goldfaden MD bright eyes- an effective eye cream that treats dark circles, puffiness & fine lines. suitable for all skin types.
step 5
moisturiser
WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF A MOISTURISER?
THE PURPOSE OF A MOISTURISER IS TO HELP THE OUTMOST LAYER OF THE SKIN RETAIN WATER. IT CREATES A BARRIER FOR THE SKIN, PROTECTING AGAINST WATER LOSS & ENVIRONMENTAL DAMAGE. MOISTURISER CONTAINS MOSTLY WATER BASED INGREDIENTS TO PROVIDE HYDRATION TO THE SKIN.
product recommendation
dr barbara sturm face cream- from the facialist to the stars herself, in 2018 sturm brought us the best moisturiser you could find for all skin types & all skin concerns. look no further than barbara sturm for all your skin concerns.
STEP 6
FACIAL OILS
WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF A FACIAL OIL?
to protect & nourish the skin.
FACIAL OILS CONTAIN ONLY OIL. THEY ARE DESIGNED FOR DRY SKIN THAT ISN’T PRODUCING ENOUGH OIL ON IT’S OWN. OUR OUTMOST LAYER OF THE SKIN IS OIL BASED, MAKING TOPICAL OILS VERY COMPATIBLE WITH OUR SKIN & EASILY ABSORBED. OILS HELP TO REPAIR & PROTECT THE SKINS BARRIER FUNCTION & REPLACE NATURAL OILS that have been lost.
CAN I USE AN OIL INSTEAD OF A MOISTURISER?
YES. DRY SKIN NEEDS OIL & DEHYDRATED SKIN NEEDS WATER. Dehydration is the most comon skin condition in australia DUE TO OUR WEATHER. FOR DRY & DEHYDRATED SKIN I WOULD RECOMMEND USING A hydrating serum with an oil on top.
Product Recommendation
omorovicza miracle facial oil
a light weight oil for all skin types that will transform your skin! contains a naturally sourced retinol for boosting cellular turnover, will deeply hydrate your skin while treating congestion & unwanted shine.
can use mixed in with your moisturiser or serum or alone.
STEP 7
SUN PROTECTION
What’s the purpose of SPF?
Protecting your skin against skin cancer & premature ageing.
What’s the difference between a mineral/physical block and a chemical block?
Mineral SPF contains 2 ingredients. Zinc Oxide & Titanium Dioxide. These work by absorbing into the outer layers of the skin, deflecting & scattering the Suns rays.
Chemical Sunscreens contain many different synthetic ingredients & work in two ways. They deflect & scatter the suns rays & convert the UV Into heat and deactivate them.
Is one better than the other?
No, choose your spf depending on your skin. If you are sensitive or break out prone go for mineral. Chemical can cause more irritation to sensitive skin, although has different benefits such as being water resistant.
Can I use a moisturiser that contains SPF it to cut down on layers?
I don’t recommend this. Sunscreens purpose is not to penetrate the skin. Moisturisers with good ingredients will be wasted & you won’t get the full benefits of your moisturiser. SPF should be an essential product in your skin care regime not a added ingredient.
Can I use a makeup with SPF to cut down on layers?
Yes although your best chance of protecting your skin from the sun is wearing a primary sunscreen. Although there are amazing foundations & tints that contain SPF I prefer to use these as extra protection as well as my primary SPF.
product recommendation
normal skin types- mecca cosmetica spf 50
sensitive/breakout prone skin types- mecca mineral gel cream spf 30
step 8
PRIMER
Is a primer necessary?
No. Day to day if you are using a serum, moisturiser/oil I don’t think you need to use this extra layer. If you have a special occasion or want your makeup to stay on all day & night with no touch ups, that’s when I would recommend using a primer.
Can I use a primer instead of a moisturiser/a moisturiser instead of a primer?
Yes.
How do I choose the right moisturiser or primer to make my makeup look better and last longer?
If you are using a oil based foundation use an oil based moisturiser/primer. If you are using a water based foundation use a water based moisturiser/primer. This is definitely one of my best beauty hacks.
product recommendation
hourglass n28 serum primer- can be used as a primer & facial oil morning & night.